12.
Giacomo Castelvetro. This is technically about the oldest cookbook in the
collection, first published in 1614. Its purpose is age-old too, to convince
the English that they should eat more greens. Castelvetro is the forerunner of
many authors in this series, an Italian introducing good Italian cooking and mysterious
foreign ingredients to a suspicious audience. That he finds himself in London
at all is due to his being that conflicted individual of the times, an Italian Protestant
in need of protection. It’s a favourite period work, pounced on at a throwaway
table of the Yarra Plenty Regional Library Service, Ivanhoe, Rosanna, Watsonia,
Eltham sometime in the noughties. Gillian Riley’s translation, Jane Grigson’s
Foreword, and the fruttivendolo artwork combine to make a fine History Play
production. Castelvetro’s style is appealing. His concerns are health, balanced
diet, simplicity of presentation, and freshness. (His entry on Rice indicates
that risotto must still have been in its early stages, and he from Modena.) The
author had been Italian teacher to James VI of Scotland, influential in
literary circles, and the first known teacher of the language at Oxford. But his
return to England now that James was I of England and Ireland came with
pressures, having just escaped near imprisonment back home under the
Inquisition. He sought the patronage of Lucy Russell, Countess of Bedford,
familiar to some readers as patron of Ben Jonson and John Donne. However, she
could not assist in promotion of his cookbook as her own fortunes had recently taken
a blow. Castelvetro died in poverty and distress in 1616, only a month before
the death of William Shakespeare.
Three
entries.
Strawberries.
In
Italy, it is only in spring that we have these fragrant and health-giving
berries, whereas you happy mortals, though you do not get them so early, have
them twice a year, in mid June and in October. Last year I was in Cambridge on
28 October, and was amazed to be eating strawberries by the plateful, not just
one or two. They were exquisite.
Strawberries
are one of the healthiest fruits to eat and would not even harm an invalid. A
decoction made from both leaves and roots is good to drink for inflammation of
the liver and regulates the kidneys and the bladder. Used as a mouthwash it
hardens the gums, strengthens the teeth and clears catarrh. (page 71)
Rice.
Then
we have rice, which is eaten in many countries, but grown in few. We plant it
in low-lying places, under water. It has a good yield, and is a most useful
crop. It is a good food for the able-bodied, but hard to digest. The Turks eat
more rice than any other nation, and cook it in may different and delicate
ways. (page 103)
Figs.
I
must not forget to mention figs, which we have in vast quantities, and which
everyone eats raw. We do not have many dried figs in my part of Italy, though
they are common in other regions, and are very good indeed, particularly with
almonds. Confectioners preserve them whole with peeled almonds in the shape of
Dutch cheeses, a delicate sweetmeat, which they keep to eat during Lent.
Dried
figs, roasted a little and eaten at bedtime, will help to clear up those nasty
coughs that linger after a bad cold. But make sure the figs are not too stale.
(page 111)
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